Friday, February 26, 2010


Okay, so, four Dwarves OR Dwarfs (according to from the old Reaper miniatures line. They are not the best but I like to put these under the "YOU too can do it!" category. I like to think that while my best work is not on this blog there is work that can motivate others to begin this wonderful hobby.

Of course that might be a bunch of horse crap I'm telling myself so I don't cry.

Either way I think they are serviceable for either war games or role playing games. I think really more in the RPG direction as all four are good character minis imho. The bases aren't very good but I plan to put them on one inch round bases soon and do them up right.

Cold One Riders and Magic & Monsters

Okay, in response to my only reader I have figured the Cold One Riders for Hackett's M&M.

This is how I did it...

I took the saurus standard, 14 points, and modified it as follows. I felt the Cold One itself was comparable to a wolf so that placed the points of a wolf at 11 moving it to 25 points (wolf has a DF of 6 and a bite attack which costs 4 points and moves more than nine inches for a further 1 point...this matches Hackett's listing of it in th back of the book).

NEXT I added a lance to the saurus for 1 point. Now, I'm sure there is a reason for the lance as it has the same modifier to the target's defense as a sword which is free. I also realize the models actually have spears but they behave like lances for the purposes of play. We are up to 26 points.

Finally the cold ones can attack so this costs a further 10 points as a warrior on a mount that can fight also is an extra cost. We're up to 36 points...BUT WAIT! As only the highest DF between the mount and the rider is used (the 11 of the saurus) I decided that it would confer with a reference soldier... the orc.

An orc with spear, shield and chainmail is 11 point. An orc with axe, shield and chainmail mounted on a wolf is....21 points....WTF? This should be at least 11 plus 11 for the wolf PLUS 10 for the "Being mounted on a steed that fights" rule rounded up to 32 points...comparable with my calculations for the cold one riders.

This is what I think is going on... two of these costs are mutually exclusive; the cost of the mount and the rule regarding a mount that fights. As the defense factor of only the highest of the two is used, and it is likely that with common soldiers this will be the guy on the back of the mount, then the only combat value beint lent by the mount is it's single attack. Now, i'd say that there is some modification that could be done here as I believe he's not detailed the idea of warriors mounted on some very nasty monsters. Say a fantasy themed Arabian fighter on the back of a giant scorpion, which would have not one but two claw attacks. This should cost more than just 10 points. I think this can be solved one of two ways; either by paying the cost for "Being mounted on a steed taht fights" for each attack the steed gets, or by adding the cost of the extra attacks and grant that the 10 points pays for the first attack and the greater speed.

Re-thinking my saurus cold one riders they tip in at 25 points; 14 for how they were, 1 for the lance/spear, and 10 for the steed that fights. I feel it's really up to my idea of balance and fairness to assign a speed to the cold ones and i'll just put it at 14 as the wolves. This is really a good speed as I don't think they would be slower or faster but around teh same.

So, in finishing, the 8 cold one riders I have would tip in at 200 points, which is far less than their WHFB equivalents at 330 points.

Now I think there is a lot of room for gaming debate here as Hackett's rules are open to use and interpretation. For 200 points my eight models have an effective 24 "attacks", really a round of 10, a roudn of 6 and a round of 8. If you've played the rules this makes sense, otherwise I sound drunk.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Cropping Pictures

I may be pitiful but I finally learned how to crop pictures using Windows Photo Gallery.

My pictures will look better from now on. I promise.

Undead Update

Well, I love undead but you wouldn't know it by the fact that I A) have no undead army for any game and B) have very few undead miniatures in my collection. The best I can figure for this is how I always get fixed on another race of fantasy and how undead models seem so expensive for what you get, in the format of their points value for games.

These are a few undead miniatures I painted up not too long ago, a set of four skeletons from the old Reaper war game boxed set. I can't remember the name of the rules set but it came with a blister of these four 25mm undead and a set of four 25mm dwarfs.

This is the Bloodspire miniature from Reaper Warlord. It is a 28mm scale miniature and if you saw it next to the skeletons it looks MUCH bigger than 3mm.

Scale creep and all that. I painted it with a fairly basic paint scheme, red cloak, metal armor, dead skin, black hair blah blah. But he is serviceable and well worth the time I put into him.

I'm hoping to get some more figuring done for Magic & Monsters as soon as possible. Be patient :)

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Magic & Monsters & LIZARDMEN

Okay, so I've gotten some of them together and let us do some referencing, comparing, and some thinking. Join me shall you?

First lets measure the saurus and skinks. By Hackett they will be classified as "lizartoles" which have a ratio of 1; move of 6; DF of 7; power of 35; agility of 75 and MF of 4. These seem fine stats for the skinks but i'm not so sure they fit saurus so well. Taking this and applying it to my skink skirmishers they have a base points of 7 and a standard hand weapon (dagger) for no points and 2 additional points for having bows that let them shoot bringing them to 9 points apeice. So, my 24 skink skirmishers would total 216 points...BUT according to the M&M rules you can't have a unit larger than 20 so i'll boil them down to two units of 12 for 108 points each unit. Skirmishers? You betcha! Just place them in 'dispersed' formation and bingo, no problem there.

Saurus are harder so I looked through the creature lists, nothing there, and looking further into the rules I found you can really just up the ratio of a creature by 1 per 5 points. The only other aspect of the saurus that bothered me was the power/agility scores. Since they A) have no points cost and B) rarely become an aspect of the play of the game I JUST SWITCHED THEM. It also seemed to me that 5 scaly skin (heavy armor equivalent) would be the same as Scale Armor (+3 DF) and the final out look was 16 points per saurus including shield and make shift weaponry. This though is too much in Defense Factor (a 13) and too much on the points end. So, I down graded the armor equivalent to a +1 from a +3 and the points and DF were now 14/11 effectively. This makes them costly but effective, just like they are in WHFB. The final score would be 20 saurus for 280 points (270 points in WHFB ...hmmmm) and 16 for 224 points.

These four units are a nice chunk of a 1600 point army (712) and seems a good start.

On to something more TRICKSY so quote Golum. Cold One Riders...

American and German Armor

I've been spending the small amount of modeling time I have had available completing a handful of armor for my WWII gaming. These are the finished product, all in profile view.

First is a Tiger tank and it should be noted I am showing you the GOOD side. I hate the airfix rubber track system and always mess them up something terrible. :( In case it wasn't evident I hand painted the icons so if they are wonky have forgiveness.
Next is a Puma armored car which will be used as a Reconnaissance unit in my game. It is an Italeri model and is 1:72 unlike all the others which are 1:76 making him a little big but nothing noticeable.
This is a Panther, obviously, and as with the Puma I did not paint a camouflage patterns and went with a solid color. There was evidence that this was not unheard of during the war so it seemed fine to "fine" i mean less than I can mess up.
Finally my two Shermans. Painting stars is HARD :) I think they are slightly out numbered but that may not remain so long as I have a Revell 1:76 M1 Halftrack waiting for assembly. This should make thinks a little more balanced. Although the German player would have to sink alot of points into his armor to take both tanks and the armored car.

"Bring us a Shrubbery!" ...and a double post.

I am NOT a total slacker but I haven't finished the Hackett Magic & Monsters conversion of my Lizardmen to post yet. I will, I promise, but I was distracted by what you see here and the other post.

From the "Do It Yourself if You're Not a Total Idiot" department we have shrubbery and hedges...

I am usually a utility war gamer, meaning my terrain elements fulfill a service roll first before a visual roll. Well, this shrubbery is not so, it would be difficult to move models around within but it should do a lot towards sparkling up my table. I'm very pleased with them except that the thick card I made them on warped, not a big deal but annoying. They are made from lichen glued to card and flocking added over paint. Not hard to make and it looks good I think!

Hedges are ubiquitous in war gaming and can apply from biblical to sci-fi, which means every gamer should have some. These are simply cuts of green scrubber pads glued to wooden sticks and the sticks painted and flocked. The wood is the craft stick kind which means they are curved on the ends and it makes it real east to join them together.

Saturday, February 20, 2010

As promised....mostly.

Well, i've got the pictures but I haven't had time to sit down and to the math on the Hackett end of things. May have bitten off more than I can chew. If you have the Hackett rules do them yourself so that when I post them tomorrow or Monday we can compare notes :)

First up is my Skink Brave with a hand weapon and short bow. Starting at the 2nd printing of the Lizardman book they took away the skink's short bow option and limited them to blow guns. I can understand this academically but it annoys me since I have a lot of skinks with short bows. My gaming friends don't mind that my skinks have short bows. This guy doesn't see much action honestly, usually only when I'm playing over 2,000 points or under it.

Next is my Saurus Scar Veteran with a cold one for a mount. As with the Brave he doesn't see much action. He is a nice fast hero character to use but commonly my points are eaten up the stuff you see below.

These are my Jungle Swarms and they aren't lizards are they? Originally Jungle Swarms could also be insects like tarantulas and that is what I made. I don't use them very often but they are great at absorbing hits with a total of 15 wounds in those three stands and the poison attacks makes the a viable threat!

Ah! My Stegadon, the largest war game model I have assembled and painted. He is in every game and always makes a good showing. If you've not gotten to fight against one of these or use one you should if you get the chance. They are solid units with a massive survivability and great threat value.

This is the red salamander (the green is below) and they almost always make it in. The current rules aren't really to my liking and the firs two printing made them more reliable and less random than current, but I'll make due. Their close combat ability has also varied with editions but I have fond memories of their (at the time) poisonous spittle seeping into the armor of Brettonian knights and...we...killing them! :)

These are my Kroxigor, two of the first edition and one of the second (the new ones look really nice) and they are fielded nearly every time. They are just really nice troops to throw at my enemy but they die pretty much every game... but never through flight. The cold blooded rule has saved my bacon more than you can imagine. If I had some javelin and shield armed skinks I could use them with a larger body of troops and maybe save them from the slings and arrows of my enemies.
My Cold One Cavalry is always in the army and always first to contact the enemy. I am quite an impetuous player and to be honest I effectively point them at an enemy unit and fling them as fast as possible at that unit. The combination of the cold one's fear ability and the cold blooded resistance to loosing combat makes them incredibly hardy and effective. They usually don't survive but they always make a mark.

My Skink Skirmishers, none of which are based b/c I always forget to base them. These are old plastic short bow wielding one-piece models. I usually put a huge unit (20 or so) of them in a skirmish line across the front of my army to act as a screen or the same unit off to the flank to rush on the enemy's flank.

My "large" unit of Saurus Warriors (20) are the original plastic saurus that do not have spears and I have never seemed to worry about it. With saurus having two attacks each it's much like they have spears. I would like to get some spears in the future but I'll get around to it when I can.
This is my command unit, 16 Saurus Warriors with my Slann Mage-Priest in their midst. He is an original first run slann and his palanquin bearers have been ditched because of the style of the rules now. With him in their midst they are equivalent to 20 soldiers and his superior magic ability makes this unit the "go to" unit if you want to beat me. Of course "going to" them will require a great sacrifice as the slann's magic will flay the enemy from afar and the saurus will eat them alive up close.

Well, this is my army, I've had it since the year 2000 and I want to finish building units for it. I'd like to get one of everything but only time will tell.

Coming soon!

I'm almost done with my WWII body of vehicles (2x sherman, tiger, panther, and puma) and a few other models for malifaux and alkemy. I'll post pictures of them all when done.


Later tonight I'm going to photo graph my WHFB Lizardmen army and show how they point out in both Warhammer AND Hackett's rules.

Hold tight!

Monday, February 15, 2010

Finished my soldiers!

The previous post showed where I was, now this one is going to show where I am. The attached pictures show the finished American and German stands. They are 1:72 Italeri and IMEX (wait I said that already) and they are based on 60x40mm (ish) bases. Rifle squads are four figures to a stand and special/heavy weapons are two to a stand. I'm planning on (eventually) modeling some paratroopers (I have figures for this) some commandos (I don't have figures for this) and maybe some day I will do some cavalry.

I'm working on rules to accommodate these and I think I already mentioned I bastardized Phil's HotT rules. I recently tried them with a friend of mine, Ron, and it went 'okay' but I'm not sure I'm happy with the results. I think I'm going to write some others with more of a Neil Thomas feel heavily modified how I want them to be. I want something fast play but not too fast and something with some good tactics needed to do well.

ANYWAY, the figures aren't all that well painted BUT they are based nicely with two kinds of flock and some lichen as SHRUBBERY giving them something nice to hide their extra ammo in or drink cozies...what have you. I received a lot of excellent advice from the gents on TMP about the first pictures I put up but I did not actively USE that advice. Odd maybe, but basically my plate is vastly full of war game/modeling projects and I hated to go back over these to make them look better although I am quite sure that it would have made them look better. I might do it later, but not any time soon. I have two Shermans, a Tiger, a Panther and a Puma to get done. And on top of all of that I am also chomping to finish my Malifaux figures (only 7 there) and a 'moite' of Alkemy (only 3 there) and I lack the amazing painting super powers of those buggers I read the blogs of.

And no smart ass remarks about less time reading blogs and more time painting figure. ;)

Saturday, February 13, 2010

What I've been up to...

...besides no good.

While, i've been trying to get some of the 1:72 world war 2 figures i've purchased painted and based and i've been PARTIALLY successful.

The pictures i've tagged onto this half assed blog entry show where i've gotten which isn't far.

The German and American stands of infantry are a mix of Italeri and IMEX and are, without exception, the WORST paint work I have ever done :) LOL! It may be odd that i'd readily admit this but they are terrible, really, and I hope anyone who sees them is inspired to think "Oh hell, I can do better than that." generating another hobbyist.

The Puma is an Italeri and the King Tiger is an Airfix, which is a different scale (1:76) and it would surprise you how much of a size difference the :04 makes. IRL the King Tiger was 6.29 meters long and the Puma was only 5.9 meters but the Puma model is actually a little larger than the Tiger. /shrug, oh well, it will work well for what I need it for.

I'm hoping that with a long weekend and some time tonight i'll get these done, if I do i'll post those pictures :)

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Attack On All Fronts

I'm switching gears, from fantasy to World War II.

I've written, well... bastardized, the excellent rules from WRG (DBA and HoTT). I'm in the prosess of assembling units and have seven G.I. units ready and will have another three or four as well as a completing what I think will be about ten german units. I'll need to complete the two shermans and one tiger i've got as wells as assemble the panther i've got.

I'm hoping that by the end of this week i'll have pictures of the units up and and some way to put the rules up.